I have been traveling around Montenegro and out of the incredible places that I have visited so far, The Old Town of Bar (Stari Grad Bar) has been one of the most indescribable, amazing spots. High up in the hills overlooking the Adriatic Sea, underrated and somewhat overlooked on the tourist route through the country, I still cannot say enough to express how amazing the experience of seeing this was.
Streets lined with the evidence of homes, churches, mosques, shops, and all of the life that was once lived there, now sits empty in silence.
As I sat alone in that silence under the shade of an olive tree, across from a wall of flickering candles outside of a small church, I felt all of the weight of the centuries that came before me.
A Quick Rundown Of (some of) Stari Bar’s History
I am not being dramatic when I say that you can feel every single century of rule while you walk around the empty streets.
It isn’t just the clear influences that you can pin point to each different empire, it is the energy in the air as you walk the small streets that abruptly stop, walk the steps that lead to nowhere, and look through the windows where people stood to see the same beautiful views that I see centuries later.
Since the 6th century B.C, Stari Bar has seen centuries of battles over the rule of the town. With such a strategic location came conquests of the Illyrians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Slavs— it doesn’t stop there— the Venetians, Ottomans, and finally the Montenegrins for the power that came with this little town’s position. After being absolutely annihilated by Montenegrin artillery and fighting, Stari Bar became apart of Montenegro in 1878…with most of what was left being reduced to ruins by an earthquake in 1979.
Pretty much undoubtedly the most important and insane historical site in Montenegro (yes, even above Kotor’s Old Town and fortress), it is a little crazy to me how Stari Bar is still being considered for UNESCO World Heritage status. Absolutely snubbed.
With such importance and insanity comes many visitors…actually, many might be a stretch as there was barely anyone else around during my time in Stari Bar during peak summer season. For the visitors, mostly coming up the mountain from the modern town of Bar, around the walls of the old city are a number of little shops and cafes that stay alive all night. You can buy pomegranate wine, post cards, eat ćevapi, and drink the best honey lemonade you’ll ever have, or you can keep walking up to the huge 10th century fortress where the old town sits.
After entering the fortress walls you will find a little stand where you pay your €5 as a due to preserve the site, and from there the walls bring you out to the open air museum of seemingly endless paths around Stari Bar’s 600+ individual ruins. You’re spending at least 2 hours around the site, I wandered around for over 4 hours until the evening sun went down, and I could’ve clocked in 4 more.
Side note: if you are visiting Stari Bar during the peak of summer, I am telling you now to visit the old town during the late afternoon and evening. That Mediterranean sun is warm and strong in the hills.
How to get to Stari Bar
Like I said, as most people visit Stari Bar as a little side excursion from the modern town of Bar, it is extremely easy to get up to the old town. The distance between modern Bar and Stari Bar is only about 5km up the hills.
Also— I really, really recommend that you stay up in Stari Bar to escape the craziness and to truly take it all in. You could easily walk up the hill to Stari Bar from the modern town of Bar, but I am telling you that you should lug your things up in a car or the bus and stay for a night or two or three.
It will be super easy for you to get a taxi both to and from Stari Bar, but what won’t be super easy is justifying the price that you might pay for how easy the ride is if you get unlucky with your driver. Especially during the summer season.
It is also very easy and common in the Balkans to hitch a ride with kind people going the same direction— but if you don’t want to opt for that option, catching the Mediteran Express from Canj to Stari Bar and vice versa is too simple. The buses up to, and down from Stari Bar run every hour all week long, and you can catch it from any little local bus stand around Bar.
The stop on the hill in Stari Bar is right at the entrance of the town. If you are arriving or leaving from Bar’s bus station, the local bus stop is just down the street towards the train station. The bus up to Stari Bar from Bar will cost you €1.
This stretch of coast on the Mediterranean from Croatia all the way down to Greece is just paradise. Not only are the clear turquoise shores along the beautiful pebble rivieras some of the most gorgeous on this earth, but the history in the area is some of the most incredible, and it is an injustice to skip out on seeing it.
If you are reading this and are planning a trip to Montenegro, I hope that this can convince you to visit Stari Bar. Bounce from Kotor, avoid Budva, escape the craziness of Bar below the old town, and please do yourself the favor of experiencing this incredible, incredible, incredible history. If you have the opportunity, you will remember it for the rest of your life.
Madigan Murphy 